PLX-DM6-Air fuel ratio meter-A/F meter installation

PLX-DM6-Air fuel ratio meter-A/F meter installation

I replaced the auto gauge and PLX air fuel ratio meter.
The installation location is where the voltmeter was originally located.
We will also explain in order why you should replace the auto gauge even though it was installed. Since I am using 2 products, I will also review them.
[Air-fuel ratio meter] [A/F meter] is installed for tuning the FCR carburetor.
Having this or not will definitely make a difference in the hurdles that amateurs have to overcome when tuning up an FCR carburetor.
Everyone is an amateur at first. By installing an air-fuel ratio meter, amateurs can exchange information with experts,
You will be able to compare it with information written by your seniors on the internet.

We recommend installing an air-fuel ratio meter!

For those who are just starting to set up a carburetor, I would definitely recommend installing an air-fuel ratio meter.
The reason is that by installing an air-fuel ratio meter, I was able to dramatically adjust the FCR tunings. Of course, just having an air-fuel ratio meter does not mean you will be able to set it.
There are various items such as purchasing jets and overhauling carburetors. The most important thing is motivation.
I will write down various reasons why I recommend it. If you have an air-fuel ratio meter, there is almost no need to check the plugs.
In the first place, checking the plug is not very reliable. If you notice black exhaust gas coming out or are concerned about the air-fuel ratio when idling, check it out. At full throttle or in the middle range, the burnt color of the plug is also a sign of wakame seaweed.
Also, you don't have to worry about the piston melting due to being too thin when fully opened.
Due to the mechanism of FCR, only MJ (main jet) works when fully opened. The reason is that the tip of JN (jet needle) is all 2mm thin. *I am writing based on what I have seen of JN.
Generally speaking, you can visually detect areas that are thin and look dangerous.
This is very important.
Next, you can judge the before and after tunings as numerical values. Is it really rich or lean?
You can also understand subtle nuances that you don't understand well. There is room for debate as to how accurately the air-fuel ratio meter is calibrated, but at least the change in rich and lean before and after the change can be determined as an absolute numerical value.
If you can judge it without an air-fuel ratio meter, you are at professional level.
It's a feeling that you won't understand unless you do a lot of tuning up of the FCR carburetor.
By installing an air-fuel ratio meter, you will be able to solve the problem by using your hands or reading the manual. The effect of the air-fuel ratio meter is that beginners can suddenly learn how to set up the FCR.
I write articles for beginners.

FCR carburetor – for beginners

・Although there is an acceleration air-fuel ratio and a partial air-fuel ratio, it is better to match the acceleration air-fuel ratio to the main one.
When set to partial, it becomes eco mode.

- Don't get caught up in the numbers on the air-fuel ratio meter. This is a machine for reference only and for checking before and after.

- There is no need to turn off the accelerator pump. Basically, motorcycles are no fun without them. Adjustment has almost no effect on FCR, so leave it at the default value. You may change the single to one with a smaller amount of injection.
For intermediate users, try changing the application amount or timing.
If you're doing research, you won't be able to move forward, and when you become an intermediate person and do research, you don't need to be particularly particular about the accelerator pump.
*It is also possible to set it without it from the beginning for the time being. The important thing is not to change the accelerator pump as part of the tunings. Seasoning after tuning is complete.

This is all the advice regarding air-fuel ratio meters. The next section will describe how to install (replace) the air-fuel ratio meter, as it will be helpful in determining how much time it will take to process the muffler, purchase parts, and work.

CBX1000-3 meter

Designed with the cockpit of a jet plane in mind! I remember reading that somewhere.
Change the center of the triple meter to an air-fuel ratio meter. Since it is 52 pi, it can be installed relatively easily.
With auto gauges, etc., you have to cut the meter and replace the stay at a home center.
It's not a big process. At first, I didn't want to change the meter, so I attached the meter to the steering wheel, but there are moments when I stare at it while I'm driving, and it's dangerous to move my neck, so I put it in the center of the meter. That's the reason why it was placed. Although it doesn't go all the way to the center of the meter,
We recommend installing it in a location where it can be easily accessed visually.

Since PLX cannot be fixed as easily as auto gauges, we wrap insulating tape around the meter and fix it to the meter cushion. In short, if you pull hard with your hand, it will come out. A normal meter has a voltage system in the center, so you can get the voltage from anywhere, and it's not something you look at often.
In my case, the [Yoshimura Temperature Meter] also has a voltmeter function, so I unfortunately removed the normal meter.

メーターのレビュー

Autogauge, PLX, and Innovate are your options for air/fuel ratio meters. I used Autogauge and PLX. In terms of visibility, the auto gauge is completely invisible during bright daytime hours. I also feel that the sensor response is worse than the PLX. PLX is also faster at startup. Among the three products above, Auto Gauge is the cheapest, but its low price has a disadvantage. Poor visibility doesn't bother me at all in the evening. Regarding the response, the auto gauge is slower, although there is a margin of error.
The startup speed is quite slow.
If you have a little extra money, you can choose between PLX and Innovate.

All three types of loggers from other companies can be easily linked.

Air fuel ratio meter boss installation

If you remove the muffler and take it to a company that can weld it, they will weld it for you in Japan for between 2,000 and 10,000 yen.
What you need to be careful about is matching the materials of the boss and muffler.
Another thing to keep in mind is not to reuse the muffler gasket.
If a few days pass and the engine makes a strange noise that sounds like it's broken, it may be due to an exhaust leak from the exhaust manifold. Please be careful.

PLX-DM6-module installation.

It is basically the configuration of DM6,
[Monitor] You mean the meter.
[Sensor] This is a Bosch sensor attached to the muffler.
[Module] A box that processes various things.
It consists of the three points mentioned above, and please read the instructions carefully for how to connect the wires.
By the way, some electronic products are converted to 6V and can be damaged by overvoltage.
It is better to check the regulator at the same time.
It is better to check the regulator at the same time.
It is better to check the regulator at the same time.
It's so important that I wrote it three times.
I have a rectifier, or rather a double regulator in front of the precision equipment. Excess voltage is cut off.

It's rough, but I'll post some pictures. The work took less than 3 hours at a leisurely pace.
On the way, the ETC fuse had blown and it took about 2 hours to find out the cause.
Lately, I have been touching wiring a lot, but getting used to using a tester will greatly improve your work efficiency.
Even if you are not good at it, you can try it a little at a time, so try tuning up a week where you touch the tester.
By the way, the functions I am currently using are the function that makes a sound when the power is turned on and the function that measures the voltage.
If you re-route the wiring for checking without wasting your time, you can definitely check where the failure is and whether the wiring is working as you want.

Photo gallery

Some of the photos may be repetitive, but I'll post them all at once.

I had lost the wiring for the PLX module, so I bought it from Amazon.
Power source is 2.1mm DC jack. I was able to use stereo audio pins for the monitor.
The couplers are also 4-pin and 6-pin, and it seems like the one for PC will work, but I haven't confirmed that.
If you have lost the wiring, it may be a good idea to prepare it in advance.

PLX-DM6-Air fuel ratio meter-A/F meter installation【summary】

I will write a summary.
I hope this will serve as a stepping stone for further investigation.
I was able to install it on CBX1000.
I felt the cost was not high for me.
If you have the space, time, and motivation, you can accomplish the task.
Welding is definitely not at a level that an amateur can handle, so you need to find out in advance where you can request it.
If you ask the manufacturer when you purchase a muffler, they will also install the sensor mounting boss upon delivery.
A separate fee will be charged.
The air-fuel ratio meter did not exist when the CBX1000 was in service.
This is an item that allows even people like me who are not at a motorcycle shop to start tuning up the FCR right away.
I have seen many riders who are just happy with the installation of racing carburetors such as FCR, TMR, and CRS.
You can also ask a custom shop to set the carburetor.
You can set it yourself.
If you set the tunings regularly, you will double the fun of riding a motorcycle.
In modern times, we also have injection and ECU.
Even if you don't touch the carburetor, be curious and look up the names of the parts and components.
See you again!