I am the owner of a Honda motorcycle [CBX1000] who lives in Hiroshima City, Japan. I am posting about FCR carburetor and CBX1000 customization. I also post about things other than cars and motorcycles. We will post information that will make bikers around the world happy.
The surprising moment when I tried tuning my own FCR – for beginners – Failures 1/3
The other day I posted about the good things about tuning the FCR of my CBX1000 myself, but this time it's about the things I failed to do. I was particularly surprised by this, and I'll write about the things I wouldn't have failed to do if I had asked someone for advice instead of tuning the FCR on my own, and the things I failed to do because I didn't have the information beforehand. This should be very helpful for anyone who is thinking about starting to tune FCRs. I'll write while remembering the things that would have been very helpful if I had been taught about them earlier.
Carburetor synchronization – Calibrating the needle of the multi-vacuum gauge
Regarding the needle of the vacuum gauge, in the case of a multi, the balance is off from the moment you buy it. I'm not sure if the 0 is correct either. The main purpose of the 0 is to synchronize the carburetors, so it's okay if it's off, but if the vacuum gauge balance is off for each cylinder, it's no good. You need to take measures such as changing the connection of each one while working. I calibrate the balance of the vacuum gauge myself. I didn't know that the balance was off in the first place, so no matter how many times I synchronized it, it was still bothering me. I was quite shocked when I found out that the vacuum gauge had to be calibrated. It was a very sad moment.
Changing the slow jet – the chamber packing wears out quickly
Aside from the fact that the chamber packing may wear out quickly, gasoline can change its size. You need to wipe off the gasoline immediately. When changing the slow jet, you need to remove the float chamber, so you need to have a spare. I recommend that you always have a spare of any packing that you use when removing or attaching it, not just the chamber packing. I use the O-ring for the quick release of the fuel line because I like it, but it also wears out quickly. I keep quite a few on hand. If you change the quick release or packing while you're out and don't realize it, it can be quite disastrous if the packing wears out. Gasoline will leak everywhere and you won't be able to drive. It's fine if you can buy a replacement at a hardware store right away, but if it's a special shape like a chamber packing, you'll have to call a tow truck.
Paper filters can interfere with fuel supply
There have been cases where the fuel filter could not keep up with the fuel supply even when idling. The angle of the CBX1000 may have been bad. The angle of the fuel line may have been bad. At least, depending on how you ride, there were times when the gasoline visible through the filter was still stopped. I have now changed to a mesh filter.
The filtering effect may be low, but I appreciate that it prevents large debris from getting in and makes it easier to see the fuel supply.
There may be no point in putting on a pingel cock.
It is said that attaching a pingel cock will increase the flow rate of fuel supply. There was a change, but in the case of my CBX1000, it was only a slight positive change. A standard fuel cock is sufficient. It does have the effect of dressing up the bike. The downside is that it is difficult to place the removed fuel tank. ↓Previous post about Pingelcock flow rate↓ PINGEL cock flow comparison PINGEL1/4
The engine will idle even with the pilot screw fully closed.
The engine may idle whether the pilot screw is fully open or fully closed. If the slow jet is too large, the engine will idle even with the pilot screw fully closed. If you don't feel any change whether you tighten or open the pilot screw, the slow jet may be too large. In my opinion, the optimum slow jet is around 0.30 to 2.00 minutes. *This is in clock ticks.
The idling itself may be fine even with the throttle fully closed, but when you look at the areas of fully closed throttle, 1/16, and 1/8 throttle start, something feels a bit strange. If the engine idles fine with the pilot screw fully closed and there are no problems, you should suspect that the slow jet is too large. In the case of the CBX1000, a carburetor pilot screw adjustment tool is essential for turning the pilot screw. And since I couldn't get the number 3 and 4 carburetors to turn properly, I cut down the carburetor pilot screw adjustment tool so that I could turn the pilot screw. In the case of the CBX1000, it is also possible to accept the fate of a 6-cylinder engine and modify the tool. There are also two holes at low throttle openings through which fuel is sucked out, such as the idle port and slow port. For that reason, the engine will idle even with the throttle fully closed.
CBX1000 FCR for beginners – It is better to modify the tools for 4-cylinder to use for 6-cylinder
Tools designed for 4-cylinder motorcycles, such as a multi-vacuum gauge or Carburetor pilot screw adjustment tool, are more time-efficient and more accurate when you choose tools for 6-cylinder motorcycles or buy two tools for 4-cylinder motorcycles. Professionals such as motorcycle shops should consider modifying or purchasing tools for a single job, but if you are an amateur DIYer, the only loss in having your own tools is financial. Modifying or purchasing tools for 6-cylinder motorcycles does not mean that you cannot use them on 4-cylinder motorcycles. If you are somewhat of an amateur, you will make fewer mistakes if you use tools that are easy to use, such as specialized products.
The surprising moment when I tried tuning my own FCR – for beginners – Failures 1/3【summary】
