FCR Tuning – Tuning becomes easier if you install an air-fuel ratio meter.

FCR Tuning – Tuning becomes easier if you install an air-fuel ratio meter.

I have a PLX-DM-6 installed on my CBX1000.
When talking about tuning the carburetor, rather than tuning the FCR, I often see various expressions on the internet such as rich or lean,
lumpy or slightly overloaded.
These are expressions used by the writer, so I don't know if they apply to the tuning of my motorcycle.
At the very least, when tuning the FCR, you are always forced to make three choices:
rich?
lean?
current condition?
When you don't know whether it's in good condition or not, you can assume that it's in good condition.
There may be a better condition.
However, the current condition is one that can be ridden properly.
That was a bit of a long introduction.
An air-fuel ratio meter will help you make tuning decisions.
You can also tune without an air-fuel ratio meter.
Having an air-fuel ratio meter will broaden the range of tuning options.
Just by reading the numbers written, you can tell at a glance whether your motorcycle is rich or lean.
Even highly skilled professionals cannot determine the exact value of the current air-fuel ratio.
On the other hand, even amateurs can look at the numbers. It takes some getting used to knowing which values ​​to pay attention to.
In this article, I will write about the amazing effects you can get by installing an air-fuel ratio meter.
I will proceed under the assumption that you have an air-fuel ratio meter installed.

↓Previous articles on installing an air-fuel ratio meter are here↓
PLX-DM6-Air fuel ratio meter-A/F meter installation

It is possible to determine if the accelerator pump is too rich.

It took me a long time to notice this.
I thought it was just a characteristic of the FCR and didn't think much of it.
When you open the throttle suddenly, there is a feeling of bumpy acceleration, and then a few seconds later, the sudden acceleration occurs.
If you open the throttle suddenly and the number suddenly becomes rich, this means the accelerator pump is overly effective.
Try turning the accelerator pump off and it runs much better.
The solution is to change the accelerator pump discharge timing, the total accelerator pump discharge volume, or modify the throttle operation. In most cases, it is better to change the accelerator pump discharge timing.
It is likely that the accelerator pump discharge timing is not necessary in the current state.
If the accelerator pump is working too well, it cannot be adjusted by simply turning the jet lean.
The accelerator pump mechanism is unstable and difficult to fine-tune.
Changing the accelerator pump discharge timing is the quickest way to improve the running of your motorcycle.

Avoid the risk of engine seizure

It reduces the risk of engine seizure due to being too lean.
Since the air-fuel ratio is clearly shown as a number, it is also possible to determine whether the engine is too lean when applying engine brakes or when the engine is at full throttle. I have never had an engine seize,
but engine seizure is not caused solely by the air-fuel ratio.
This is definitely helpful. It is also a great relief in terms of mental health.
It also makes it easier to change the main jet with peace of mind.

Rich or lean judgement

When changing jets, you can generally correctly judge whether to go rich or lean.
The rider needs to judge whether the throttle opening is wrong by feeling it.
After that you will know correctly whether it is rich or lean.
You will be able to select the correct jet.
Just knowing the direction of rich or lean will reduce the effort of changing jets.
The CBX1000 is a 6-cylinder engine and changing jets requires removing and attaching the tank.
It has been a great help to me.

By installing an air-fuel ratio meter, you can determine any unexpected abnormalities.

It's also easy to determine if the idle is lean or rich.
You can visually determine whether the idle is lean or rich, which is something you can't tell unless you get in the car or listen to the sound. If it's difficult to tell whether the pilot screw is adjusted just by the sound or racing (idling), you can look at the air-fuel ratio gauge to determine whether it's roughly correct. If the slow jet is too large and the idle is a little higher, the pilot screw will not work, so you can immediately see any strange symptoms.
It is a mysterious abnormality until the cause is identified.
Even if the abnormality is mysterious, in many cases the cause can be identified and the problem can be solved by changing the jet while predicting various causes.

Installing an air-fuel ratio meter will allow you to talk to others.

When asking questions or seeking advice from knowledgeable people or others on social media, you can ask about the symptoms and provide numerical values.
This is very important.
It also makes it easier to compare tuning data from previous riders when you have it.
If you don't have an air-fuel ratio meter, the only way to clearly determine whether something is getting better or worse is to rely on the rider's own sense. Conversely, it makes it easier to determine if your own sense is off.

The best position to install the air-fuel ratio gauge is where you can see it clearly.

The best position for installing the air-fuel ratio gauge is at an angle that makes it easy to see even in strong sunlight, and where it is easy to see while driving. If it is installed in a position where the sunlight makes it difficult to see the air-fuel ratio gauge or makes it difficult to check it instantly while driving, it will feel a little lonely. By the way, my CBX1000 has no analog voltmeter and the air-fuel ratio gauge is installed in the center of the meter. It is easy to see while driving, but it is difficult to see in strong sunlight, so it feels a little lonely.

FCR for Beginners – Do beginners need an air-fuel ratio meter?

This is a must-have if you want to enjoy tuning your FCR.
Installation is a bit of a hassle, as it requires some processing, but it's not difficult and should be installed.
In fact, it may not be necessary for experienced drivers.
It is more useful for amateurs to have instruments installed.
Even if you don't need it because you'll leave it to the shop, if your shop is the type that will test drive and tune your car,
they should be able to tune more accurately if you have an air-fuel ratio meter installed.
By the way, you'll have change from 70,000 yen to purchase and install an air-fuel ratio meter.
In my case, the purchase of the air-fuel ratio meter cost about 25,000 yen, welding was 2,000 yen, and other expenses such as gaskets were about 3,000 yen.

FCR Tuning – Tuning becomes easier if you install an air-fuel ratio meter.【summary】

For riders who plan to install a tuning racing carburetor such as FCR, CRS or TMR, we recommend that you install an air-fuel ratio meter.
Unless you absolutely do not want to modify the muffler to install the boss, the fact that you have a racing carburetor makes it no longer standard.
Installing an air-fuel ratio meter involves welding, so in some cases it can be difficult to do it yourself.
Also, when purchasing a new muffler, if you consult with the manufacturer in advance about installing a boss, in most cases they will accept it as an additional option in advance.
This was an article recommending the installation of an air-fuel ratio meter.
Installing an air-fuel ratio meter will allow you to tune your FCR with higher quality than before.
Owners who have not yet installed one should definitely consider it.
Until then, have a good FCR life.
See you again!

CBX1000 Photo Gallery

I've included photos of the meter area and the air-fuel ratio gauge from a previous post.
If it's 52mm, it can be incorporated into a triple gauge. I was using a PLX and an Autogauge air-fuel ratio gauge,
but there wasn't much difference in response. The PLX only had a few seconds faster wake-up time.
The PLX is a little more expensive when it comes to linking with other devices, so it may have an advantage, but when used alone, I didn't feel the difference in price of about 10,000 yen.