Since I changed the FCR-SJ, I checked the startability and touched the PS – 22/09/28

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Since I changed the FCR-SJ, I checked the startability and touched the PS – 22/09/28

Now that the rain has stopped, I have some time to check the engine's startability and idling speed.
On the day before
Changed to Just make a change and you're done, so
There are various resets to ensure a comfortable ride.
Generally, after changing the SJ, there are many work items as it involves attaching and detaching the cab.
① Adjust the tension of the throttle wire.
②Adjust the PS so that the engine can start.
③Temporarily adjust AS.
④Adjust the idling.
⑤ Re-synchronize.
⑥Take a test run and adjust AS.

Adjust the above by going forward and backward through steps 1-6.
The reason why I changed the SJ from 42 to 38 this time is because I feel like the number of AS returns will reach its limit, so I changed the SJ count to 38 in order to be able to tighten the AS. BITO default is SJ40.
Last time I tried SJ40.
Next time I will try SJ38.

Basically, you can't move forward unless you start and idle.
Make it easy to start.
First, adjust the PS.

The shipping status of BITO is
PS-1.45 minutes back
AS-1.30 minutes back
JN-90FXM#3 or 90GTM#3
It becomes.

My tuning before the change was
PS-2.15 minutes back
AS-2.15 minutes back
That was the situation.

Regardless of PS, AS has returned too much, so I wanted to do something about it.
I open the PS in 15 minute increments with a cold start.
It took about 3.30 minutes to settle down after a cold start.
By the way, AS is 30 minutes back.
There is also the engine temperature, but it stabilizes without twisting the throttle.
This was the extent of the screw positioning.
Drain the gasoline from the FCR when changing SJ.
I thought that this would cause problems with idling.
If you tighten the PS, idling and starting will be poor.
Today, I touched on AS and PS again. Even if I set the PS back by 2.00 minutes,
The throttle is not fully closed. It stabilizes when the PS is set to about 3.30 minutes.
I didn't like the return of AS, so I changed to SJ.
This time, the PS return is bad.
AS also became too tight.
I decided not to use SJ38 for my current CBX.
It may be useful if you change the number of JN clip stages or the season changes.
But SJ doesn't want to change throughout the year.
Today's tuning is over and we are reconsidering whether to make SJ 40 or 42.
I did sync. There were no problems when driving normally.
Changing SJ consumes gasoline.
Changes take time.
There is also the risk of overflow problems.
You will need to re-sync.
Throttle wire adjustment is required.
Changing it frequently is very time consuming.

Is 40 or 42 the best SJ for my CBX?

This is a case of 90FXM with JN jet needle shipped from BITO.
This is my CBX story.
For SJ slow jets, 40 is definitely the easiest to handle.
It is also possible to enjoy rich at 42.
38 is not compatible.
Used when changing JN to 90GTM etc.
I am tuning without being able to select JN.
If there's something you don't like, you'll have to change the SJ.
SJ40 seems to be fine all year round.
SJ has influences other than AS and PS screws.
I'm thinking of going with a richer 42.

For FCR beginners – change SJ after exceeding the screw adjustment range

For SJ slow jets, if the AS and PS screws are within the appropriate range, it is better to avoid changing them as much as possible.
The tuning manual also states that if the screw exceeds the appropriate range, it must be changed.
And changing SJ takes too long. I am making changes based on my own knowledge.
According to the tuning manual, it says that if you change the straight diameter of the JN jet needle, you may need to change the SJ, but the change is about 4 steps in the straight diameter and 1 clip step. The thickness changes depending on the throttle opening, so I can't make a general statement, but I currently feel that there is no need to drastically change the SJ just because you can buy the JN.
It's best to try making various flashy changes to your SJ just before you reach intermediate level.
For beginners, it is sufficient to change the SJ after exceeding the adjustment range of the screw.

↓I measured the thickness in a past article↓

tuning of FCR - If the small jet needle is F taper, you cannot choose the cut-up. Round up comparison
I can't help but feel like the large is basically telling you not to use anything other than the E taper. Small has more overall numbers than large, but [E] taper still has more options. With F-taper, you cannot choose the cut-up unless you order it in units of 20 pieces.

Since I changed the FCR-SJ, I checked the startability and touched the PS – 22/09/28【summary】

As of 2022, when you purchase BITO's CBX FCR, SJ will settle at 38, 40, or 42.
In my case, 38 seemed a little out of range of the screw this time.
Depending on the number of clip stages on the JN, you may be able to use 38, 40, or 42.
In my case, the number of clip stages on the JN is set to [2], which is one step leaner than [3] when shipped from BITO.
If you determine that the FCR tuning is bad, change it immediately.
This time I didn't go as far as to try it until I decided it was bad.
The purpose is to keep the screw within the proper range.
SJ38 is a combination that I haven't tried since changing to the current JN, so it could be a great combination.
I expected it to be there. Before the test run, the screw was out of range to the extent that I judged it to be bad.
Maybe it's because I tend to open PS too much.
SJ38 was rejected because I didn't like it.
Bad results lead to experience.
I hope you enjoy making various changes until you like it.
I hope you all have a fun FCR life!
See you again!

*There are work photos at the bottom.

This is a work photo.

I had done some work on it the day before, so this is just a rough final check.
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