I am the owner of a Honda motorcycle [CBX1000] who lives in Hiroshima City, Japan. I am posting about FCR carburetor and CBX1000 customization. I also post about things other than cars and motorcycles. We will post information that will make bikers around the world happy.
FCR tuning – Use BITO’s default jet needle. I did a test drive with a higher cut-off.
I purchased a slightly special needle, 90FXM, from BITO.
What's special about it is that it's a count that doesn't see many upswings.
In fact, it is not in the standard stock lineup.
This is the needle attached to the current initial tunings of BITO's CBX1000 FCR.
Rounding up is probably the standard stock, and [T] is the main stock for small.
[E] Taper allows you to choose the rounding up of [T] and [Z].
[F] Taper can only be selected from [T].
[G] Taper allows you to choose the rounding up of [M] and [T].
If the basic [T] is not rounded up enough in such a situation, please change the taper.
The lineup looks like it contains a silent message like this.
It looks like there is a difference of about 3 steps in the cut up with the same straight diameter.
Although I have not measured it, the air-fuel ratio at low opening is close to that of [90EZM] and [90GTM] with the same number of clip stages.
I wonder if it will happen.
The large lineup is such that it is best not to set it to anything other than [E] taper.
↓You can see the list of active standard stock. ↓
This is the result of various test runs.
BITO initial tunings
SJ-40
PS-1.45 minutes back
AS-1.30 minutes back
JN-90FXM#3
MJ-130
My CBX1000 tunings
SJ-40
AS-1.10 minutes
PS-2.15 minutes
JN-90FXM#2
MJ-132
Change the SJ size from [40] to [42] or [45] and adjust the screw adjustment range.
I was thinking that it would be better to change it,
There are times when I want to try something more with PS etc., so I'll leave it as is for the time being.
Originally, I had a problem where I felt a bump when I suddenly opened the throttle at a clip speed.
I feel like it has been resolved to a large extent. If you focus only on 1/2, you may lower the MJ count.
I can think of it, but it is within the range that can be handled by riding.
And we are seeing improvements, so we avoid getting too hung up on it.
FCR tunings that you would like to try next time
I'm thinking of trying a jet needle like [90GTQ].
The reason is that [G] taper increases the range of straight diameter choices.
This time's jet needle 90FXM also has a cutting edge that can be moved up about 3 steps,
Even if you change from [F] taper to [G] taper, you can cut it up about 3 steps higher.
example
[90ETM#3] and [90FTM#6] have the same thickness of jet needle at low opening.
Probably, controlling the cut-up by changing the taper angle is the only part that
It's probably not a simple thing with changes, but while tuning up the FCR is fun,
This is something you should try.
For FCR beginners – Extremely adjusting the number of clip stages
The tuning for beginners will be in a state where the range of touch is small.
Since I'm a beginner, I naturally don't have tuning parts such as JN jet needles or MJ.
That's normal.
This time, there are things I haven't done before that I wish I had done first.
Try making extreme changes, such as tuning the number of clip stages to #1 or #7.
Count the number of clip stages from the top with the needle part facing down, #1.
My current CBX1000 seems to have a different ride quality in the #1-#3 range.
When I went to extreme #6, it got to the point where I couldn't get it to fit properly.
In the case of my CBX1000, I cannot try upwards.
My basic jet for CBX1000 is [90FTQ#2].
What you can see here is the lower limit of the number of clip stages. Once you know the lower limit of the number of clip stages
There was no need to choose jet needles with the same cutting edge with the E taper.
The reason is that if you change only the taper angle, the position of the equivalent number of clip steps will also change by about 3 steps.
Either way, it's an item that shows extreme changes, and the information you can get for your machine is
its big. If you feel that something is wrong, just return the clip position to its original position.
By the way, I think that the straight diameter is 4th and there is a change in the number of clip stages of about 1 stage.
If you change one part, the others will change as well, so don't just focus on that part, look at the whole thing as a whole.
FCR tuning – Use BITO’s default jet needle. I did a test drive with a higher cut-off.【summary】
Recently, I bought jet needles with different taper angles and tried them out, and I feel like I learned a lot from them.
If you have an environment around you where you can ask more questions, or find out more on the internet or SNS,
I look back and realize that I should have asked questions and gathered more information.
I had some concerns about the 90FTQ jet needle, so I decided to check [90ETQ] and [90ETR]
I bought it, but what I should have bought was
I am currently thinking that it was [90EZQ] [90EZR] [90GTQ] [90GTR].
It's a jet needle that I don't think I'll use in the future, so
I feel a little lonely, but I try to think of myself as having been able to learn a lot.
Our predecessors have written about various things on the internet, including their failures, successes, and incorrect expressions.
Even if you are wrong or have misunderstood, it will definitely be helpful.
What I write may be wrong, there may be measurement errors, or the information on the internet may be unreliable. Although it is your own responsibility, please gather information and enjoy your FCR life.
Then see you again
work photos
In the case of my CBX1000, changing the JN jet needle is faster and safer by removing the tank.
My CBX1000 has a two-pronged throttle wire.
