I am the owner of a Honda motorcycle [CBX1000] who lives in Hiroshima City, Japan. I am posting about FCR carburetor and CBX1000 customization. I also post about things other than cars and motorcycles. We will post information that will make bikers around the world happy.
When I'm curious about the FCR tunings, I try to touch them anyway.
If you change the jet etc. and it doesn't work, just change it back.
Regarding AS, if starting is poor or the throttle feels heavy up to 1/2, open it. On the other hand, if I don't feel a sense of power, I tighten it for about 5 minutes.
AS is a screw that is easy to touch, so if I feel like it, I touch it a lot.
However, in the case of CBX1000, the return number is the same for all 6 cylinders.
Both PS and AS are screw type, but the PS should be fixed as much as possible.
Just open and close the clutch meat part when you feel like it.
tunings are difficult to understand if you touch PS and AS at the same time.
The reason is that PS and AS have overlapping areas of influence.
First, don't touch PS, just touch AS.
Changing FCR tunings
The premise is that I set it because I touched the light dial of AS Uotani SP2 and advanced it from [0] to [1]. I prefer the feel of installing it in [2], but
[1] doesn't give a bad feeling, so after adjusting the FCR tunings in [1],
I am thinking of changing the ignition timing to +4 degrees in [2].
AS-1.35 minutes
PS-1.15 minutes
SJ-55
JN-90FTR-#2
MJ-125
Acceleration pump-[KX250]
→
AS-1.30 minutes
PS-1.15 minutes
SJ-55
JN-90FTR-#2
MJ-125
Acceleration pump - [Standard]
→
AS-1.30 minutes
PS-1.15 minutes
SJ-55
JN-90FTQ-#2
MJ-125
Acceleration pump - [Standard]
→
AS-1.30 minutes
PS-1.15 minutes
SJ-55
JN-90FTQ-#2
MJ-125
Acceleration pump-[KX250]
→
AS-1.30 minutes
PS-1.15 minutes
SJ-55
JN-90FTQ-#2
MJ-125
Acceleration pump - [Standard]
I decided on the tunings.
This time, I had changed the tunings in advance, such as changing the dials, so I had made some predictions.
I was tuning it up, but I didn't have much time to test drive it.
It feels like I've confirmed the tunings I want to try next time.
Regarding MJ, on the expressway when the ignition timing of AS Uotani SP2 is [0]
I looked at the air-fuel ratio meter and found it was at a good position, so I started lowering it from MJ138.
I only have MJ up to 128, so I'm currently on hold.
I will try making it leaner with 90FTR and 90FTS, including the straight diameter of JN.
I feel that MJ affects the air-fuel ratio and driving feeling from 1/2 to 1/4 when the throttle is fully opened. If I feel that it feels heavy even after tuning, I am thinking of changing the MJ count to the leaner side.
CBX1000 Photos
I think it's better to take photos while you can. I don't know if it has anything to do with the work or not, but I will post a photo before the work starts.
Regarding the tuning, I basically don't look at the burnt color of the plug.
I don't know if it's an urban legend or if it's true, but if it's golden brown, it's the best tuning!
I've heard of this. It is unclear where and where the color of the plug changes during driving. It's a good idea to check the burnt color of the plugs out of curiosity as an overall average value. It is neither easy nor reliable to set it just by looking at the burnt color of the plug.
I think it's a good idea to check the burnt color of the plug after synchronizing it for a little longer without driving it at all. This is a method that can be used to check your health if you are susceptible to this while idling.
You may be able to discover problems other than the tunings.
The way they burn is also different between normal plugs and iridium plugs. Iridium plugs may be completely white, or normal plugs may look overly burnt.
I don't know if iridium plugs turn a beautiful golden brown color like normal plugs.
From what I've checked, it seems to be in good condition with a slightly whitish appearance.
Nowadays, there are A/F meters that have a high air-fuel ratio, so we recommend using that as your main tuning.
By the way, I believe that if you advance the angle with the AS Uotani SP2's light dial, the overall effect will be thin. This is my personal experience. It's not just a matter of touching the ignition timing. The correct information is written in the AS Uotani SP2 manual. When we talk about intake efficiency and tuned engine, we mean FCR or a bore-up engine. For now, when I touch the ignition timing, The effect on the carburetor will be less overall. I have a pseudo-sensation that it becomes richer. Let's change the topic a little. It appears that there was a CBX1000 meeting on Saturday 22/06/11, the previous day. As expected, I gave up on participating because it was far away and it was raining. There are motorcycles that can be compared, and there are pro shops that have a lot of experience using CBX1000. I'm very happy to have you. Currently, my wish has not come true, and I am trying various things on my own. Even if it's not a CBX1000, I ride with people who are knowledgeable about motorcycles of the same year. I am in a state where I am listening to stories that may be helpful. I post my FCR tunings every time. The impression that things are getting better may be a placebo effect. However, I can definitely feel that something has changed, so I will continue tuning the FCR without giving up. See you again!
