FCR-Test run with acceleration pump adjustment-22/06/09

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FCR-Test run with acceleration pump adjustment-22/06/09

I posted an article about replacing the diaphragm of the accelerator pump of CBX's 6-unit FCR.
I will post a blog post about it as a history of my test drive.

↓This is an article about work. ↓

I will write the conclusion or results first.
It's better after the change.
Is it better to turn down the accelerator pump a little in the summer?
I thought.
I consciously set the FCR to give priority to acceleration, and it's much better than before.
Because It is rich.
The discharge timing of the accelerator pump must be adjusted.
First of all, is it better to replace the diaphragm and change the discharge amount? Is it better to have less eyes?
Make sure.

AS Uotani SP2 dial tunings

I made the dial tunings for AS Uotani SP2.
After replacing the accelerator pump, I touched the ignition timing tunings of AS Uotani SP2.
When it was 0, it was obviously better to make the accelerator pump smaller,
If you touch the ignition timing, shouldn't the accelerator pump be left as standard? That's what I thought.
Characteristically, [0] is standard, [1] is advance angle, and [9] is retard angle.
It's set to [0], but when I set it to [9] and retarded it, it was a little weird.
[1][2][3][4] are lead angles.
[1] and [2] had a very good atmosphere. I will write a detailed review of Uotani in another post.
When you advance the angle, it feels like the overall feeling becomes leaner. And yet,
I feel like I haven't lost any sense of power. In the future, after tuning
Did you check the ignition timing of AS Uotani SP2 and it got better? Has it gotten worse? Must also try.
To be more specific, I feel like I can pseudo-judge whether it's lean or rich.

FCR-For Beginners-About Ram Air

Are you using ram air? Are you not wearing it? Do I need to change the tunings?
My conclusion is that whether or not the ram air is oiled or not,
There is no need to change any tunings.
This is just what I can experience, and I'm talking about it on the street.
In the world of racers who seek speed to the limit, I think a funnel carburetor is the correct answer, but on the street, I don't see any difference in tunings depending on whether or not ram air is used.
It may appear in detailed numerical values, but it is completely unrelated.
It doesn't matter if you put oil on it. I like to keep Ram Air on at all times.
By the way, in addition to preventing fires from blowing back and adsorbing dust, ram air oil also has the following functions:
This will prevent the sponge from deteriorating.
I haven't seen any clear announcements, but when I was new to ram air, I thought that adding oil was bad because it would increase resistance.
I tried using some filter oil, but it didn't make much of a difference.
And even if ram air is not exposed to direct sunlight for a long time, it will deteriorate if it is not moist.
It turns into powder and decays. When it is oiled, it is still in good working condition. I've never used a power filter, so I can't say much about it.
There is no mistake in using ram air with oil, so please be sure to use oil. By the way, I use Wako's and K&N filter oils.
I can't tell the difference between the two, and there's no difference between the spray type and the liquid type.
After applying it, I also rub it into the sponge.
Ram air filter used for 3 years
Ram air filter used for 3 years
Ram air filter used for 3 years
Ram air filter used for 3 years

CBX test run photo

The photos are a bit sloppy, but they are before the test run and during the test run.
Please note that I am careful not to overlap with other photos as much as possible.

FCR-Test run with acceleration pump adjustment-22/06/09【summary】

It's a preconception, but I thought that I shouldn't touch the ignition timing dial on the AS Uotani SP2.
The other day, I had a chance to ride with another old motorcycle, and at that time, I set the tachometer's rev limit extremely low.
There were times when I didn't have a good sense of acceleration. At that time, I read the AS Uotani SP2 manual again, and it seems that advance angle [2] [1] basic [0] and retard angle [9] and [8] are due to knocking due to advance angle and retard angle. It looks like you won't have to worry about abnormal combustion.
I tried not to touch it due to preconceived notions, but it seemed like it would be okay to touch it as long as it was within the above range. In my opinion, the delayed angles [9] and [8] did not have a good feel for me.
[1] I didn't have to do anything. [2] feels like it makes me expect something,
It was a feeling that made me think that if I touch the clips and screws, things will get better.
So, later on, I will write about the details of my impressions after playing AS Uotani SP2.
Once again, I will write about the accelerator pump diaphragm, which is the purpose of this article.
In the summer, it may be better to make the accelerator pump diaphragm smaller than the standard one.
I'll let you know if anything changes.
See you again!
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